Mulching

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pamela

  • Sr. Member
Re: Mulching
« Reply #15 on: September 07, 2011, 07:39:10 AM »
Thank you Mike for that very interesting site of Linda Chalker Scott.  I thought the articles on the  Myth of Xeriscaping and also Leaf Wilt extremely interesting.
Jávea, Costa Blanca, Spain
Min temp 5c max temp 38c  Rainfall 550 mm 

"Who passes by sees the leaves;
 Who asks, sees the roots."
     - Charcoal Seller, Madagascar

Chantal

  • Jr. Member
Re: Mulching
« Reply #16 on: September 07, 2011, 08:12:24 AM »
Yes, indeed, it is something that Olivier Filippi is saying since a long time : mediterranean plants don't like organic mulch, they can be killed because of an organic mulch. Just have a look on the garrigue : the plants are thriving on grit and rocks and stones.
Chantal Guiraud
Montpellier-France
MGS Seed Coordinator

"The flowers of spring are winter's dreams told in the morning at the table of the angels" (Khalil Gibran)

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MikeHardman

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Re: Mulching
« Reply #17 on: September 07, 2011, 08:26:18 AM »
Thanks, Pamela, for prompting me to look at some of Linda's other articles - indeed, very interesting.
I include a direct link here, because there are a few other articles on mulching
http://www.puyallup.wsu.edu/~Linda%20Chalker-Scott/Horticultural%20Myths_files/index.html.
Mike
Geologist by Uni training, IT consultant, Referee for Viola for Botanical Society of the British Isles, commissioned author and photographer on Viola for RHS (Enc. of Perennials, The Garden, The Plantsman).
I garden near Polis, Cyprus, 100m alt., on marl, but have gardened mainly in S.England

David Bracey

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Re: Mulching
« Reply #18 on: September 07, 2011, 10:38:33 AM »
There is some circumstantial evidence building-up which suggests mineral mulches may in fact be the best /safest type of mulch.  The control of Pythium and Phytopthora will be aided by good drainage, such as you find in the garrigue. The soils of the Languedoc are alkaline therefore it is doubtful that gysum (calcium sulphate) will help with the control of damping-off diseases.  Gypsum works on clay soils. I suspect the rest of the Mediterranean Basin has similar soils.

It would be good if someone (my namesake Bracey, for example) could comment with a Californian view. How about in Chile, Eduardo??

David

 
MGS member.

 I have gardened in sub-tropical Florida, maritime UK, continental Europe and the Mediterranean basin, France. Of the 4 I have found that the most difficult climate for gardening is the latter.

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JTh

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Re: Mulching
« Reply #19 on: September 07, 2011, 11:32:32 AM »
Mike, the link you gave us was extremely interesting, and not only the part about mulching.
Retired veterinary surgeon by training with a PhD in parasitology,  but worked as a virologist since 1992.
Member of the MGS  since 2004. Gardening in Oslo and to a limited extent in Halkidiki, Greece.

hilberry

  • Newbie
Re: Mulching
« Reply #20 on: September 07, 2011, 04:44:35 PM »
I was thinking about mulches today.  I'm clearing an area under elms for a dry shade garden and before planting it up I thought to put down a mulch of bracken, the reason being that there is loads of it down the lane, and because I can't plant it up just yet and want to suppress weeds in the meantime. 

What do you experts think of bracken?  Are there any contra indications?  Advice please.
Retired artist/potter.  Amateur gardener searching for suitable plants for my hot dry summers, cool wet winters.  Redesigning the garden to have a shady area under trees, so searching also for dry shade plants and ideas for the type of soil needed.  I live in S.Loire Atlantique, France

ezeiza

  • Full Member
Re: Mulching
« Reply #21 on: September 07, 2011, 11:08:35 PM »
People in the US West Coast should know about this and that the practice of mulching they have used for decades and decades is wrong.

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Alisdair

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Re: Mulching
« Reply #22 on: September 23, 2011, 06:29:02 PM »
Hilary, Composted bracken is used as a mulch in the UK. (Bracken does contain a carcinogen, but that is broken down by composting).
But in mediterranean conditions and for plants adapted to dry summers and winter moisture I'd go along with the Olivier Filippi school of thought, preferring mineral mulches to organic ones.
Alisdair Aird
Gardens in SE England (Sussex); also coastal Southern Greece, and (in a very small way) South West France; MGS member (and former president); vice chairman RHS Lily Group, past chairman Cyclamen Society

ezeiza

  • Full Member
Re: Mulching
« Reply #23 on: September 23, 2011, 09:31:33 PM »
Only that in this forum lots of plants with the opposite cycle (that is, warm season growers) have been shown and recommended. A mulching that would conserve soil moisture will be a real improvement.

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MikeHardman

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Re: Mulching
« Reply #24 on: September 23, 2011, 09:56:07 PM »
The thermal cover for my swimming pool is disintegrating (getting old).
It is blue plastic bubble film, and each of the 'bubbles' is rather flat topped. As it disintegrates, the 'lid' of each bubble falls off.
I have been skimming these little bits of plastic from the pool for some while now, and tipping them out (plus leaves, lizards, etc.) onto a new area of the vegetable garden. ...Gradually building up a mulch of blue plastic squares :)
Mike
Geologist by Uni training, IT consultant, Referee for Viola for Botanical Society of the British Isles, commissioned author and photographer on Viola for RHS (Enc. of Perennials, The Garden, The Plantsman).
I garden near Polis, Cyprus, 100m alt., on marl, but have gardened mainly in S.England

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Alisdair

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Re: Mulching
« Reply #25 on: September 24, 2011, 07:54:53 AM »
What happens to your plastic mosaic when the wind gets up, Mike? ;)
Alisdair Aird
Gardens in SE England (Sussex); also coastal Southern Greece, and (in a very small way) South West France; MGS member (and former president); vice chairman RHS Lily Group, past chairman Cyclamen Society

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MikeHardman

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Re: Mulching
« Reply #26 on: September 24, 2011, 09:21:14 AM »
:)
Actually, I hate having foreign material in the soil - tiles, concrete, nails, plastic, etc., and especially glass. So when the cover has finished 'moulting', I shall clean up and remove the blue bits as best I can.
Mike
Geologist by Uni training, IT consultant, Referee for Viola for Botanical Society of the British Isles, commissioned author and photographer on Viola for RHS (Enc. of Perennials, The Garden, The Plantsman).
I garden near Polis, Cyprus, 100m alt., on marl, but have gardened mainly in S.England

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Fleur Pavlidis

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Re: Mulching
« Reply #27 on: November 09, 2011, 11:22:55 AM »
In answer to David:
Twenty reasons why I don’t use gravel mulch (but use shredded clippings instead)
-   It’s made of gravel, as are all my paths. Also the lower part of the house is stone as are all the walls in the entrance and west side of the house – stone overload.
-   In Greece it’s white. I don’t need any more white reflecting light and heat off at me in summer.
-   Storage. Gravel has to be delivered in bulk and sit until used somewhere that the lorry can reach i.e. a central point, or else wheel-barrowed into a corner. Organic mulching material and shreddings are easily stored in the corner.
-   Weight. I need the help of a strong male (paid) to load and wheel barrows of gravel. Organic mulch I can manage myself.
-   Cost. Home-made mulch raw material is free.
-   Infertile soil. My mix of terra rosa and subsoil is desperately low on humus and improves noticeably after a couple of years of organic mulch.
-   Stony soil. My soil is already up to 50% stone (see below).
-   Planting. When you need to replace a plant in the gravel it’s a pain in the neck to stop the soil and gravel mixing and the gravel getting into the hole. With organic mulch you just scrape it aside and if some gets into the back-fill it doesn’t matter.
-   Weeds. Once the surface of the soil has been lightened by organic mulch the weeds pull out much more easily.
-   Seedlings. Because I shred all my deadhead clippings I get lots of interesting seedlings around the place.
-   Stops the stems of natives from rotting. You must be kidding; nothing stays damp in my garden. Anyway I keep the mulch away from the stems.
-   Temporary. Basically mulching by the gardener is only a temporary measure because once the plants spread out and cover the soil they carry on doing the job all my themselves.
-   Shredding. The task of shredding is pleasantly repetitive and sweet smelling if the prunings come from herbs or aromatic trees. In summer it’s a job for the shade. At which you might say why not just sit in the shade with a drink and a Kindle, but I have to admit that I never sit in my garden.
« Last Edit: November 09, 2011, 11:30:33 AM by Fleur Pavlidis »
MGS member, Greece. I garden in Attica, Greece and Mt Goulinas (450m) Central Greece

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ritamax

  • Full Member
Re: Mulching
« Reply #28 on: March 06, 2012, 06:11:25 PM »
Thank you for most interesting informations! We actually had to put a permeable fabric and stone chippings over it, as we bought a house a year ago with a garden (350m2) with nothing else but a cypress hedge, some yuccas and ficus trees and a grama lawn with millions of dandelions, thistles etc. Almost all the gardens in our corner (rain fall under 300) have stone chippings (usually marble, limestone and some rosa coloured stone), they don't cost much (40 euros a ton) and organic mulch would probably turn into dust. After this was done, I was quite frustrated to find out, how uncomfortable it is to plant through the membrane. There seem to be also different opinions, whether the temperature of the soil under the stones gets warmer or cooler in the summer. It is obviously not possible to improve the soil except around the plants, but our clay would be too hard work for an absentee gardener anyhow. It is a pity, that the plants cannot self seed with this layer, but the weeds have obviously less chance. For me it is a compromise, I am waiting for my new trees and shrubs to make it look greener! 
Hobbygardener (MGS member) with a rooftop garden in Basel and a garden on heavy clay with sand 600m from seaside in Costa Blanca South (precipitation 300mm), learning to garden waterwise

Alice

  • Hero Member
Re: Mulching
« Reply #29 on: July 01, 2012, 11:44:57 AM »
After reading all the interesting comments on mulching, here are our experiences from 12 years of gardening on a plot of 2300 sq m on the Greek island of Paros.
Our soil was very poor and stony to start off with and organic mulches improved its structure considerably but we couldn't say if they reduced water demands as we never had enough to lay down the recommended 10-20 cm. We had no problems whatsoever with stem rotting - climate too dry and windy.
We have tried the following: vine waste, olive leaf, products of home shredding (we have a small shredder and the use of a larger one), municipality-produced shreddings, home-made compost, manure and gravel, and what we have found to be the pros and cons of each material are listed below:

Vine waste/olive leaf
Pros:vastly improved soil structure/fertility; suppress weeds
Cons: can never get enough; supply seems to have dwindled (too many takers?)

Home shreddings
Pros: good way of recycling garden waste; suppress weeds; improve soil
Cons: never enough; a lot of hard work with not much to show for it, barely enough to mulch 20 or so plants - and we have over 700!

Municipality shreddings
Pros: similar to home shreddings
Cons: too coarse/woody; contains all sorts of rubbish; not available currently

Composted weeds/kitchen waste
Pros: recycled waste, mild fertiliser
Cons:not usually broken down enough, weed seeds survive

Manure
Pros: good fertiliser
Cons: introduces weed seeds; expensive

Gravel
Pros: looks neat for a season or two
Cons: Soil is blown on top of it allowing weeds to germinate and pulling out the weeds brings more soil to the surface; heavy; expensive. Very much in agreement with Fleur's comments

We have this year for the first time experimented with straw. We put down 30 bales - fast (completed in a couple of days) and not too expensive for the area covered (which includes almost all our plants). It remains to be seen how it performs.

I have a couple of questions:
a. Would winter rain penetrate below a thickly-laid mulch?
b. What is the fire hazard of a lot of bone-dry organic material underneath plants?
Amateur gardener who has gardened in north London and now gardens part of the year on the Cycladic island of Paros. Conditions: coastal, windy, annual rainfall 350mm, temp 0-35 degrees C.